IntroductionThis post is my attempt to outline the D70 to D70i conversion process. I know that there are various sites out there that have done this too but I noticed that most are quick outlines that do not go into details about possible issues that a modder might encounter and some are just pages of technical details comparing a converted camera against an unconverted one. I hope to outline the process in a way that will reassure anyone wishing convert their own camera that it is relatively easy and safe.
Disclaimer
I do not work for nor am I in anyway affiliated to Nikon. This conversion process is neither approved nor endorsed by Nikon.
You understand that:- There is a risk of damage to your camera
- Your camera's warranty will be rendered void (no longer valid)
- I cannot be held responsible for any damage to your camera
Ok, with the necessay "un-pleasantries" out of the way, let's get down the the fun part...
What you will need- A small Phillips screwdriver - the type used for adjusting the screws on spectacles
- A small pair of needle-nosed pliers
- A fine blue/red marker
- A suitable piece of IRP filter cut to size (29.59mm x 25.27mm)
- A steady hand and some courage
Suitable IRP filters- Hoya R72
- Hoya R90
- B+W 092
- B+W 093
- Tiffen 87
- Edmund Long Pass (ELP)
Under no circumstances should you use a Cokin 007 filter as the filter has tiny air-bubbles embedded in it that are invisible to the naked eye but that will look like footballs on your photos. Preparing for the conversion- Get your filter cut to the correct size
- Clean your filter, it must be completely clean of dust and streaks and there must be NO SCRATCHES
- Clean your work place
- Clean your hands
- Remove the lens and replace it with the body cap
- Remove the CF card and battery
- Take a deep breath
The ConversionStep 1Flip the camera over and remove eight screws from the base of the camera, these are the ones circled in
RED in the image below:
(IMG:
http://www.pbase.com/image/49672564/original.jpg)
DO NOT remove the three screws crossed-out in green.
Step 2Carefully remove the base cover.
While holding the camera upside down with the LCD facing you, flip up the small, black holding-clip of the ribbon cable connector. Please refer to the image below:
(IMG:
http://www.pbase.com/image/49672565/original.jpg)
Gently pull the ribbon cable to disconnect it from its connector.
Step 3Unscrew the pair of screws from both sides of the camera:
(IMG:
http://www.pbase.com/image/49672566/original.jpg)
and remove the back cover with the LCD. Do this slowly and take extra care when seperating the ribbon cable, that is still attached to the camera back, from the main body of the camera:
(IMG:
http://www.pbase.com/image/49673586/original.jpg)
Step 4You're a third of the way in...
(IMG:
http://www.pbase.com/image/49672567/original.jpg)
You'll need to flip up the black/grey/brown holding clip from this connector and carefully pull out the ribbon cable:
(IMG:
http://www.pbase.com/image/49672568/original.jpg)
Step 5Before you proceed to remove the four screws holding down the sensor board, take a careful look at the next image:
(IMG:
http://www.pbase.com/image/49672569/original.jpg)
Note the three areas highlighted by the green circles.
Using your fine marker, draw a line from the shiny metal sensor board, all the way to the black plastic guide next to the board. Do this in all three points circled. This will serve as a guide when you replace the sensor board. Without this, you may find yourself with a slanted sensor, which will result in photos that always look tilted.
Once the lines have been drawn, remove the four screws, circled in red in the image below, and carefully lift up the sensor board.
Disconnect the white cable below this board. This is a simple plug-in cable.
(IMG:
http://www.pbase.com/image/49672570/original.jpg)
Step 6Unscrew the four screws holding down the filter-retaining frame:
(IMG:
http://www.pbase.com/image/49672571/original.jpg)
Seperate the retainer frames from the sensor.
(IMG:
http://www.pbase.com/image/49672572/original.jpg)
Step 7Make sure your replacement filter is
ABSOLUTELY CLEAN for this next step.
Very quickly, loosen the AA/IRC filter, (it may stick slightly to the rubber seals) and replace it with your replacement flter, making sure that it is seated properly in the rubber seal and that it completely covers the sensor.
Step 8Start to work your way backwards.
First thing to do is to replace the ribbon cable connecting the sensor board. Take note that this cable needs to be inserted into its connector to a depth of approximately 3.5mm to 4mm. You may feel resistance after inserting it for only 2mm but this is not enough. If you are unable to insert it to its proper depth with just your fingers, gently grip the ribbon cable with the needle-nosed pliers and continue the insertion. You may also need to peel off the sticky tape holding down the square ferrite core to make things easier.
Once the ribbon cable is in place, replace the white plug-in cable too.
Step 9Replace the sensor board, making sure to align the markings you made in Step 5 before tightening the screws.
Step 10Replace the back-cover, taking care to insert the ribbon cable through the hole provided for it and drawing it up to the connector.
Insert the ribbon cable in the connector, making sure that it is inserted completely. You will find this cable easier to replace but should still take care to see that it is pushed in as far as it will go before you close the retaining clip.
Replace the four screws for the back-cover.
Step 11Replace the camera base. Be sure to insert the rubber strip circled in the image below into the "gap" designed for it on the side of the camera:
(IMG:
http://www.pbase.com/image/49672576/original.jpg)
Replace the remaining screws, being sure to place the two longer screws in their proper holes.
Step 12With the White Balance set to Auto, take a test shot (in daylight or with a flash). If you see a red photo in the LCD, you're safe. If not, refer to the troubleshooting section.
That's it for first part of the conversion process. If you successfully changed the filter stack in your D70, than you will now be able to take IR photos with greatly increased shutter speeds. Note however that your auto-focusing will now not be reliable and you will need to learn to compensate for this. I am in the process of doing some focus calibration that will enable a converted D70 to auto-focus without compensation and once the results are firm, I will post the method here.
Cheers,
Matt
This post has been edited by deadpixel on Jul 11 2006, 10:19 PM